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发表于 Oct 21, 2021 18:00:02
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现在，您最好的朋友、您的工作妻子和您的母亲很有可能都是类视黄醇（所有维生素 A 衍生物的总称，如视黄醇）的狂热使用者。但随着人气而来的是错误信息。为了帮助您在没有任何颠簸（字面意思）的情况下顺利完成线条平滑，皮肤亮白的旅程，耶鲁大学医学院的董事会认证皮肤科医生和临床副教授 Mona Gohara 博士揭示了需要正式消除的五个视黄醇神话.
By now, there’s a good chance your best friend, your work wife and your mother are all avid users of retinoids (the umbrella term for all vitamin-A derivatives, like retinol). But with popularity comes misinformation. To help navigate your line-smoothing, skin-brightening journey without any bumps (literally), Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor at Yale School of Medicine, reveals the five retinol myths that need to officially go away.
误解：视黄醇自动需要“净化”期。
MYTH: Retinol automatically requires a “purge” period.
人们与维甲酸相关的严重脱皮、刺激和痘痘？他们根本没有必要。虽然，是的，在开始使用维甲酸后的前两到四个星期内可能会发生一些轻微的剥落和轻微的痘痘（在容易长粉刺的人中），但您可以通过低而缓慢的开始来最大限度地减少大部分副作用。
The severe peeling, irritation, and breakouts people associate with retinoids? They’re not at all necessary. Though, yes, some light flaking and mild breakouts (in acne-prone individuals) can happen during the first two to four weeks after starting retinoids, you can minimize most of the side effects by starting low and slow.
首先，选择最温和的类视黄醇，如适用于敏感皮肤的棕榈酸视黄酯（试试 Embryolisse Creme Anti-Age Raffermissante），或适用于所有其他皮肤类型的低浓度纯视黄醇（如 SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 0.25）。使用豌豆大小的团块，而不是利马豆、芸豆或任何其他随机蔬菜。然后，“每周两晚使用维甲酸，持续两周，每周三晚，持续三周，然后每隔一晚或无限期地每晚使用，”Gohara 博士说。 “慢慢来让你的皮肤有更多的时间来适应，所以它不会一下子就吓坏了。”
First, pick the gentlest of retinoids, like retinyl palmitate (try Embryolisse Creme Anti-Age Raffermissante) for sensitive skin, or a lower concentration of pure retinol (like SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 0.25) for all other skin types. Use a blob the size of a pea—not a lima bean, kidney bean or any other random vegetable. Then, “apply your retinoid two nights a week for two weeks, three nights a week for three weeks and then every other night or every night indefinitely,” says Dr. Gohara. “Going slow gives your skin more time to adjust, so it doesn’t freak out all at once.”
误解：所有类视色素都对痤疮同样有益。
MYTH: All retinoids are equally good for acne.
“当你的死皮细胞脱落并意外堵塞毛囊时，就会导致痤疮，这会导致细菌滋生，直到毛囊发炎，”Gohara 博士说。 “类视色素越强，它就能越好地调节脱落。”因此，即使您的温和抗衰老晚霜在一定程度上有助于保持毛孔清洁，但它对粉刺的作用也有限——特别是如果配方中还含有丰富的、堵塞毛孔的成分。 “治疗痤疮的最佳非处方类视黄醇是阿达帕林，它通常采用无油凝胶配方，”她说。我们的选择？理肤泉 Effaclar 阿达帕林凝胶 0.1%。它很有效（所以，再次开始缓慢），但随着时间的推移，它会消除粉刺和抚平细纹。基本上，任何维甲酸都比没有维甲酸要好——但是，如果你想要最快的结果（如果你的皮肤不是特别敏感），请前往你的皮肤以获得处方强度的配方。
“Acne is caused when your dead skin cells shed and accidentally clog the hair follicle, which allows bacteria to build until the follicle gets inflamed,” says Dr. Gohara. “The stronger the retinoid, the better it can regulate that shedding.” So even though your gentle anti-aging night cream helps keep pores clear to an extent, it’ll only do so much for acne—especially if the formula also contains rich, pore-clogging ingredients. “The best OTC retinoid for treating acne is adapalene, which usually comes in an oil-free, gel-based formula,” she says. Our pick? La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1%. It’s potent (so, again, start slow), but it’ll zap acne and smooth fine lines over time. Basically, any retinoid is better than no retinoid—but, if you want the fastest results (and if your skin isn’t especially sensitive), head to your derm for a prescription-strength formula.
误解：使用多种抗衰老产品胜过一种。
MYTH: Using multiple anti-aging products is better than one.
视黄醇眼霜加视黄醇面霜加视黄醇精华液？很火的为面部的选择单。 “你的皮肤只能产生这么多的胶原蛋白，所以即使你把自己浸泡在视黄醇中，你也不会让时光倒流 20 年，”Gohara 博士说。 “通常，每天一次视黄醇会达到最大容量。”
Retinol eye cream plus retinol face cream plus retinol serum? Recipe for a face fire. “There’s only so much collagen your skin can produce, so even if you douse yourself in retinol, you’re not going to turn the clock back 20 years,” says Dr. Gohara. “Generally, retinol once a day will hit that max capacity.”
误解：视黄醇只能用于干性皮肤。
MYTH: Retinol can only be applied to dry skin.
维甲酸可以……高维护。有些配方最适合干性皮肤，有些则可以在洗完脸后立即使用，皮肤科医生在如何应用它们以获得最大功效的问题上经常存在分歧。对于非常困惑（并且非常疲倦）的简单解决方案？时间释放视黄醇。与传统的维甲酸类物质不同，一旦您抚平它们就会渗透您的皮肤，延时配方（如 Alchimie Forever Advanced Retinol Serum）几乎没有封装的视黄醇球体，它们会在几个小时内慢慢裂开并沉入您的皮肤，使它们超稳定，无论您在拍干皮肤后涂抹它们的速度有多快。
Retinoids can be…high maintenance. Some formulas work best on bone-dry skin, others can be used right after washing your face, and dermatologists are often divided in their opinions on how to apply them for max efficacy. A simple solution for the very confused (and very tired)? Time-released retinol. Unlike traditional retinoids that penetrate your skin as soon as you smooth them on, time-released formulas (like Alchimie Forever Advanced Retinol Serum) have little encapsulated spheres of retinol that slowly break open and sink into your skin over several hours, making them ultra-stable, regardless of how quickly you apply them after patting your skin dry.
误解：低强度的维甲酸实际上没有任何作用。
MYTH: A low-strength retinoid doesn’t really do anything.
无论您选择哪种类型，所有类视黄醇都能加速胶原蛋白的生成（这意味着皮肤更光滑、更饱满、更清新）。当然，您的温和的、注入视黄醇的晚霜不会像纯处方他扎罗汀（仅供参考，它是现存最强的类视黄醇）那样快速减少皱纹，但所有非处方类视黄醇都可以在Gohara 博士说，从长远来看，通常副作用要少得多。
All retinoids speed up your collagen production (which equals smoother, plumper, fresher-looking skin), regardless of which type you choose. Sure, your gentle, retinol-infused night cream won’t reduce your wrinkles as quickly as pure, prescription-only tazarotene (which, FYI, is the strongest retinoid in existence), but all over-the-counter retinoids will work in the long run, says Dr. Gohara, and usually with far fewer side effects.
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